Happy Cat Month on September, 2018: Why does my cat have blood in his stool?
September, 2018 is Happy Cat Month 2018. CATalyst Council: 10 Tips To Make Cats Happy for Happy Cat Month ... In honor of Happy Cat Month,
Your cat has had bloody stool for months and it’s become so bad that you’ve found blood trails leaving the litter box? Yikes, that sounds really bad! Granted, it is a good sign that your cat shows no signs of lethargy, personality changes and is active and happy… then again, the absence of symptoms does not mean there isn’t something seriously wrong. I have noted a few suggestions below. If you do not see positive results within a reasonable period of time, I would have your cat retested by another vet, preferably a feline specialist.
The first thing I would do is put your cat on a food fast for 24 hours (1-day). This will allow your cat’s system to settle down. Then I would feed your cat skinless cooked chicken and rice mixed with some plain yogurt in small amounts twice per day. The cultures in the yogurt will calm his digestive system.
I also think you should try dietary supplements: Several natural remedies are associated with helping restore balance to the digestive system while helping the overall health of your cat. Ingredients such as Plantago major (Plantain) is known to support the health of the digestive system and mucous membranes. The major constituents in plantain are mucilage, iridoid glycosides (particularly aucubin), and tannins. One product to try is Pet Alive RunnyPoo Relief which is a natural remedy containing herbal and homeopathic ingredients which are known to maintain digestive balance, firm stools and healthy bowel functioning.
I would also try a natural cure to remove the blood from your cat's stool such as Psyllium nigrum, Avena sativa (oats) or Aloe ferox. These are natural cleansers of the digestive system and come combined in a single capsule. You can find this product at online pet sites or perhaps local pet stores carry it. Give your cat natrium muriacticum along with the natural cleansers. Natrium muriacticum is a salt that supports digestion and skin health and the combination will help cleanse your cat's digestive system.
Did your vet mention and/or was your cat tested for any or all of the following possible causes? Bacterial infections like Clostridia, E Coli, and Salmonella; Ingestion of toxic substances like rat poison or house cleaning agents; Intestinal parasites like tapeworms, hookworms and roundworms; Consumption of unhealthy or allergic food those are unsuitable for cats; Presence of benign tumors in the rectum or colon; Invagination of one part of the bowel into another; Coagulopathy' or clotting disorder in the body; Intake of certain allergic drugs and antibiotics; Cancer of the lower bowel (neoplasia) or Inflammation of the bowel or 'Colitis'.
I have a few questions that I hope you will answer either by adding additional details to your current question or by contacting me directly by clicking on my name… Questions: How long ago was your cat seen by the vet? How long did you noticed bright red blood in your cat’s stool before taking him to the vet and how long precisely has this bleeding been going on? What tests did your vet perform? Is your cat’s stool dry and hard, runny or contain mucus? Are you absolutely certain the diarrhea was caused by giving your cat wet food? You mentioned that you changed your cat’s diet and then changed back again—why? Did he have an adverse reaction to the new diet? Has your cat been tested for food allergies?
Found cat 6 months ago....?
As someone else said, ask to see other photos of the cat.
Make the person prove it is their cat before you hand it over.
If you are describing things correctly, that poster does not look like the cat you have, there are those differences you told us about.
Is the poster cat male or a female cat? Yours is male, right? What about the cat in the poster?
If it does not say, call them and ask whether their cat is a male or female. Obviously if they say female, it's not their cat.
Ask for any telltale markings - scars, unique fur patterns. etc.
Ask about fur patterns on the entire body? What color are the poster cat's feet, what color is the poster cat's abdomen - chest, legs, back, etc.
Ask them how much the cat weigh when it went missing. How much does your cat weigh.
Ask about all these things and compare them to your cat.
Any dental extractions - has they cat every had a tooth removed or one broke off or jst came out? How about the cat you have?
Does their cat have a microchip ID? If so, have you checked your cat for a microchip?
Does the poster state the cat's age? If not, find out and compare it to how old you think your cat is.
How long has that poster been up? If it is a short time, compared to the 6 months that you've had the cat, it probably is not the cat you have.
If you only just saw a poster that might or might not be about him after you've had him for 6 months, keep him.
It is obvious that no one has been out trying hard to find him - you've had him for 6 months.
This cat has definitely settled in with you and wants to live there.
I'd keep him.
My wife tells a story about one of her friends - let's call her Sara. There was a cat who lived a few house down the street from Sara and it came and spent an lot of time at Sara's. It fed and watered there and often slept in their back yard. They even took it inside some.
It became apparent that the owners were not taking good care of the cat, Sara even took it to the vet once for a wound.
Sara and her family were moving. They packed up everything, the movers took off, and Sara and her husband drove away, Sara waving to her neighbor - with the cat at her feet in the car.
Sara said she waved at them and thought "Bye, we've got your cat!"
Given the lack of attention on the part of the owners, Sara did not hesitate to take the cat with her.
It lived a happy and long life with them.
Moral of the story is, even if you know the owners of a cat, it is sometimes better, for the cat, that you keep it.
You can check the things I've mentioned above, but if I were in you position, I would keep the cat.
It sounds like that photo is not of your cat.
But - check the other things if you feel you need to. Just don't let them have the cat by default - I mean, don't let them see the cat until they have answered our questions and you think it might be theirs.
I keep coming back to you having the cat for 6 months and only now finding a poster that might or might not be him.
Were was the poster - how close to your house? Posters are usually put up within a short distance of the cat's home. Few people spread them out very far.
How long had the poster been up - was there a date on the poster that the cat went missing? Have you had him before that date?
I'd keep him.
Which would be the best for my 5 years old female cat?A four months old kitten or a comperatively older adult?
I got a 4 month old male kitten for my female cat 2 weeks ago and lost much sleep worrying about it. We followed a very similar process that michele_cat_cyprus gives you a link to. The introduction process Steps 1 to 3 are at least as important as the cat you ultimately choose. For my part I think it's more important. Do it wrong and you prolong the unavoidable battle period and risk ending up with 2 cats that will hate each other for the next 10+ years.
Here's what I can add:
1) I'd personally choose a 4 month old, but if I picked an older one I wouldn't pick one over 1 1/2 year as by 2 years of age a cat's personality traits are pretty much set and less easily changed; and you want the new cat to be able to change to fit in.
2) Your highest chances of success will be if you get a kitten/young cat that knows "kitty manners", specifically how to behave towards adult cats. Kittens also learn "kitty manners" from litter mates, but a hiss, growl, swat, bite from another kitten usually mean "LET THE GAMES BEGIN" whereas the same behavior from an adult means "I"M NOT GOING TO TELL YOU AGAIN". You want the new kitten you bring in to know how to defer to the resident, adult cat. If the kitten does this, is respectful I mean, your cat will not feel as challenged and things will go much more smoothly.
2) If your cat is active, ideally you want a kitten that is about the same activity level, with slightly less active being the ideal. The idea is that if you cat is pretty active and playful, she will eventually be intrigued when she sees the kitten playing. If she is more shy or likes quiet, she won't want a super active kitten flying through the house like a banshee at all hours of the night, it will be threatening to her.
3)If at all possible don't pick a shy kitten. Shy and calm are not related. A shy kitten is scared. A calm kitten is either oblivious or confident. What you want is a calmer, self-confident kitten. You definitely don't want the most dominant kitten in the litter, nor the shy one that hides under a table. You want something in the middle
4)Buy a collar(with one of those annoying bells)for the new kitten once you bring them together. It will allow your cat to know where the little upstart is so she isn't unexpectedly surprised by it.
5)Your must seriously restrain yourself from holding, hugging, talking fondly to and especially sleeping with the new kitten (within sight of your cat) during the introductory process. This can be a total deal-breaker.
If you're planning to get a kitten from a shelter, whether a kitten has "kitty manners" or is too dominant, etc. are things you likely won't know for sure about the kitten unless you spend a lot of time there. A cat from a good breeder would be better since they can help you select. Also, some rescues use foster parents exclusively and kittens are raised in harmonious colony environments with great care given to placement. This is something you would have to do some research on depending on how important you think it is to pick the right kitten/cat.
Hope some of this helps you. It's nice that you want to find just the right age and personality mix in a kitten/cat to make your girl happier. It was important to me when I did it too. Best of luck!